Rebuilt after punishing WWR bombings, Arnhem, 100km southeast of Amsterdam (2 trains per hr., 70min.) is now one huge outdoor shopping center with little to offer. Let the wild rumpus begin as you check out where the wild things are at the contiguous Hoge Veluwe National Park, a 13,000 acre preserve of woods, heath, dunes, red deer, and wfld boars. This may well prove one of the highlights of your trip to Europe. Tucked deep within the park and a 35min. walk from the nearest entrance fies the Rijksmuseum Kr6ller MCiller, one of the finest modem art museums in Europe, with 276 Van Goghs and superb paintings by Seurat, Mondtiaan, and many others, as well as a sculpture garden including pieces by Mafflol, Moore, and Lipchitz. Visitors can pedal the park's white bikes for free pick one up at the visitor center and drop it off at any bike stand. The newly opened Museonder, at the visitor center, is the world's first underground museum, dedicated to the study of the subterranean ecosystem (exhibits open 9am_5pm, Nov. April l0am 5pm). From June through August, and at selected times throughout the rest of the year, bus 12
"Hoge Veluwe" leaves from the Arnhem train station; board and alight as often as you wish (I per hr., 9:40am 4: I Opm, 7 strips). The bus w M zoom you directly to the
museum's doorstep, or you can tide another 1200m to Koperen Kop, the visitor center and bike rental station. At other times, take bus 107 to Otterlo and walk 45min. from there. (Park open 8arn sunset. Museum and sculpture park open Tues.Sat. I Oam 5pm, Sun. I I am 5pm; Nov. March Tues. Sat. I 0am 5pm, Sun. 1 5pm. Park r.50, children f3.75; museum and sculpture park free.)