Hidden behind the intersection of Spui and Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal is the enclosed Begijnhof (also spelled Bagijnhof), a former convent dating from the early 14th century the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal curved westwards to include it in the city boundary. It's a surreal oasis of peace, with tiny houses grouped around a well kept courtyard. Amsterdam has many such enclosed hofjes (literally 'little courtyards'), or almshouses (old people's homes run by charities), but this is the only one where the public is still welcome. It's open during the day but not for tour groups or camera crews.
Linger a while to recover from the hustle and bustle of the city. Note the house at No 34: it dates from around 1465, making it the oldest maintained wooden house in the country, There's a collection of biblical wall tablets on the blind wall to the left.
The Beguines were a Catholic order of unmarried or widowed women from wealthy families who cared for the elderly and lived a religious life without taking monastic vows; the last true Beguines died in the 1970s. They owned their houses, so these could not be confiscated after the Calvinist coup.
Before street numbers were introduced in 1795, many of Amsterdam's residences were identified by their wall tablets. These painted or carved stone plaques (dating from the mid17th century) were practical decorations used to identify not only the inhabitants' house but also their origin, religion or profession.
Beautiful examples of these stones are still found on many of the buildings along the main canals. Occupations are the most frequently occurring theme: tobacconists, milliners, merchants, skippers, undertakers and even grass mowers are represented.
As well as being colourful reminders of the city's former citizens, these tablets also provide historical hints about the city's past. A stone depicting a mail wagon at Singel 74 commemorates the commencement of the postal service between Amsterdam and The Hague in 1660. Farther down the street a tablet portraying the scene of Eve tempting Adam with an apple attests to the time when that part of the street operated as a fruit market (known as the 'apple market').
Many wall tablets dotted throughout the city celebrate the life of famous citizens like the maritime hero Michiel Adriaenszoon de Ruyter and biologist Jan Swammerdam, but the most appealing are memorials to domestic life and common vocations of the age.
Taken away from them and they were forced to worship in the 'clandestine' church opposite (note the dogleg entrance), where paintings and stained glass windows commemorate the Miracle of Amsterdam. The Gothic church was eventually rented out to the local community of English and Scottish Presbyterian refugees the Pilgrim Fathers worshipped here and still serves as the city's Presbyterian church. Some of the pulpit panels were designed by a young Piet Mondriaan.
Hidden behind the intersection of Spui and Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal is the enclosed Begijnhof (also spelled Bagijnhof), a former convent dating from the early 14th century the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal curved westwards to include it in the city boundary. It's a surreal oasis of peace, with tiny houses grouped around a well kept courtyard. Amsterdam has many such enclosed hofjes (literally 'little courtyards'), or almshouses (old people's homes run by charities), but this is the only one where the public is still welcome. It's open during the day but not for tour groups or camera crews.
Linger a while to recover from the hustle and bustle of the city. Note the house at No 34: it dates from around 1465, making it the oldest maintained wooden house in the country, There's a collection of biblical wall tablets on the blind wall to the left.
Beautiful examples of these stones are still found on many of the buildings along the main canals. Occupations are the most frequently occurring theme: tobacconists, milliners, merchants, skippers, undertakers and even grass mowers are represented.
