So many northern European capitals claim the title "Venice of the North that the sobriquet has become devalued. Some say there is no substitute for the real thing, but perhaps Amsterdam has the strongest claim to the title. The city lacks the romantic splendor of Venice, but there is a cool, restrained beauty about Amsterdams canals (grachten) and their attendant buildings.
The finest canals are west of the city center, beyond the bustling main streets of Damrak and Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, both of which were canals at one time. A stroll along narrow side streets from Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal and across the busy Spuistraat brings you suddenly to the great water ways of Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht.
Herengracht
Herengracht is the finest canal of the grachtengordel, the ring or girdle of canals that were built in the early 17th century to defend the city. The name Herengracht translates into English as the "Gentlemeds Canal," a sign of contemporary male ascendancy. This was the district where the wealthiest Amsterdam merchant families built themselves handsome canal side mansions notable for their superb ornate gables. The houses were designed to be tall and narrow because of limited space.
Take a stroll down Herengracht to appreciate it all. You can start from the canal's northern end at its junction with Brouwersgracht. The B rouwcrsgracht is the short stretch of canal that links Herengracht to the Singel canal at the Haarlemmer Sluis, one of the 40 or so sluices that are opened each night to
Flower stalls are an essential part of the Amsterdam scene
flush clean water through the canal system. Haarlemmer Sluis can be reached from Centraal Station by walking northwest along Prins Hendrikkade for about 300 yards and then turning left. Cross the wide sluice bridge. (There is a superb cheese shop on the opposite corner.) Go left, then turn right along Brouwersgracht to reach the tree shaded bridges at the junction with Herengracht.
Walk south for a mile of scenic history to where the Herengracht meets the Amstel river. You can stroll down either side of the great canal and cross over bridges to get the best views of canal side houses. Visit the Theater Museum and garden at Herengracht 168, and the exquisite Bartolotti House next door. The latter is a 17th century Renaissance mansion built by the head of the Bartolotti Bank. Enjoy the Golden Rocht, which translates as "Golden Bay'or "Bend," between
Leidsestraat and Vijzelstraat note the decorative double fronted houses along the elegant curve of the canal.
The curve is an engaging motif amid Amsterdam's general flatness in the decorativeness of house gables, the elegant bridges, the sweep of railings, even in the curved handlebars of the wonderful old upright bicycles still favored by Amsterdammers. There are said to be 600,000 bicycles in the city, and it seems that everybody cycles in Amsterdam. Elderly dames and heren (ladies and gentlemen) cruise past to the tinkling of bells like songbirds. Stylishly dressed young people skim along with their backs straight and a wary eye on the tourist's uncertain bid to run across the street in front of them.
Connections
Explore the Prinsengracht (Princes' Canal) and the Keizersgracht (Emperors' Canal), as well as the main canals, and don't neglect the connecting waterways.
There's the Leidsegracht on the Golden Bend, or the peaceful, leafy Egelantiersgracht near the Anne Frank House (Anne Frankhuis, see page 345) that takes you into the quiet heart of the Jordaan district. Sidestep into enchanting streets between Herengracht and Singel canals, such as Gasthuismolen Steeg or Oude Spiegelstraat, where craft and antique shops and boutiques rub shoulders with delightful little cafes and restaurants. And try a nighttime walk along the great canals, when many of the finest houses are floodlit and the numerous bridges twinkle with lights.
In summer the canals become venues for concerts by the water, rowing regattas, Chinese dragon boat races and various other events. Amsterdam is many things to many people, but the city's fascinating network of canals will always be the enduring motif of this very special city.
So many northern European capitals claim the title "Venice of the North that the sobriquet has become devalued. Some say there is no substitute for the real thing, but perhaps Amsterdam has the strongest claim to the title. The city lacks the romantic splendor of Venice, but there is a cool, restrained beauty about Amsterdams canals (grachten) and their attendant buildings.
Herengracht is the finest canal of the grachtengordel, the ring or girdle of canals that were built in the early 17th century to defend the city. The name Herengracht translates into English as the "Gentlemeds Canal," a sign of contemporary male ascendancy. This was the district where the wealthiest Amsterdam merchant families built themselves handsome canal side mansions notable for their superb ornate gables. The houses were designed to be tall and narrow because of limited space.
Flower stalls are an essential part of the Amsterdam scene
flush clean water through the canal system. Haarlemmer Sluis can be reached from Centraal Station by walking northwest along Prins Hendrikkade for about 300 yards and then turning left. Cross the wide sluice bridge. (There is a superb cheese shop on the opposite corner.) Go left, then turn right along Brouwersgracht to reach the tree shaded bridges at the junction with Herengracht.
The curve is an engaging motif amid Amsterdam's general flatness in the decorativeness of house gables, the elegant bridges, the sweep of railings, even in the curved handlebars of the wonderful old upright bicycles still favored by Amsterdammers. There are said to be 600,000 bicycles in the city, and it seems that everybody cycles in Amsterdam. Elderly dames and heren (ladies and gentlemen) cruise past to the tinkling of bells like songbirds. Stylishly dressed young people skim along with their backs straight and a wary eye on the tourist's uncertain bid to run across the street in front of them.
