The Damrak ('Dam Reach,) stretches out in front Of You towards Dam Square. This used to be the original harbour but soon became unsuitable for larger ships that tied up to
palisades along what is now Centraal Station and unloaded onto lighters. Today the Damrak is an agonising stretch of gaudy souvenir shops, exchange bureaus and claustrophobic hotels. At No 19 is Seksmuseum Amsterdam (also known as 'De Venustempel'), open daily from 10 am to 11.30 pin and well worth the R.50 admission fee for its bizarre collection of pornographic material. Welcome to Amsterdam!
In the late 19th century the southern half of the Damrak was filled in for the new exchange building, the 1903 Beurs van Berlage (Ph: 530 41 41), named after the architect HP Barlage who was still designing it after work began. The functional lines and
stark, square clock tower contrast with the more exuberant designs of the age, but it is considered one of the most important landmarks of Dutch city architecture. You'll understand why when you look more closely at the clever details inside and out. The large central hall, with its steel and glass roof, was the commodities exchange where coffee, tobacco, sugar, wine and colonial merchandise were traded. (The traders eventually deserted the building in favour of the neoclassical Effectenbeurs (Stock Exchange), built in 1913 by Centraal Station's Pierre Cuypers on the east side of Beursplein.)
In the 1970s the foundations of Berlage's bourse were sinking and it was slated for
demolition, but it was saved by popular outcry. It is now a cultural centre (home to the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra) with concert performances and changing exhibitions such as Picasso's paintings, Frank Lloyd Wright's designs and Karel Appel's works that are too large for regular museums. The public entrance is on the Damrak side, next to the bicycle shop. It's open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 4 pm and entry costs f6 (f4 with discounts). Climb the clock tower for the view. In summer there's a pleasant cafe on the Beursplein side.