The first section of Herengracht, south from Brouwersgracht, shows a mixture of expensive 17th and l8th century residences interspersed with warehouses note the 18th century warehouses at Nos 37 and 39, and the early I 7th century warehouses at Nos 43 and 45. On the opposite side of the canal, beyond the pretty Leliegracht and just before the first bend, is the White House at No 168 and the adjacent Bartolotti House at No 170 172.
The White House, named for its sandstone facade, was built in 1620 and modified in 1638 to a design by Philips Vingboons. It now houses the Theatermuseum (Ir 623 51 04), open Tuesday to Friday from I I am to 5 pm, weekends from I pm (admission f7.50, or f4 with discounts). Even if you're not interested in the history of Dutch theatre, it's well worth visiting for the stunning interior which was completely restyled in the 1730s, with intricate plasterwork and extensive wall and ceiling paintings by Jacob de Wit and Isaac de Moucheron; a magnificent spiral staircase was added then too. All of
this has been completely renovated recently, so you'll see it at its best. In summer, the lovely garden out the back is the perfect spot to reflect on life.
The museum spills over into the Bartolotti House, which has one of the most stunning facades in the city a red brick, Dutch¬Renaissance job that follows the bend of the canal. It was built in 1615 by Hendrick de Keyser and his son Pieter by order of the wealthy brewer Willem van den Heuvel, who later assumed the name of his Bolognese father in law so he could inherit his bank and develop it into a trading empire. The house was later split down the middle (the Theatermuseurn occupies No 170) and both residences were inhabited by prominent Amsterdam families.
