A few paces east of here, through Enge Kerksteeg, is the mighty Oude Kerk, the Gothic Old Church built early in the l4th century in honour of the city's patron saint, St Nicholas the 'water saint', protector of sailors, merchants, pawnbrokers and children. It's the oldest surviving building in town, sadly demeaned by the red light district that now surrounds it. The original basilica was replaced in 1340 by an intricately vaulted triple hall church of massive proportions that was miraculously undamaged by the great fire of 1452.
Further extensions ground to a halt as funds were diverted to the Nieuwe Kerk, and a century later Calvinist iconoclasts smashed and looted many of the priceless paintings, statues and altars. The newly Calvinist authorities kicked out the hawkers and vagabonds who had made the church their home, and changed the official name from St Nicolaaskerk to Oude Kerk (as it was commonly known anyway). In the mid17th century the Nieuwe Kerk took over as the city's main church.
Note the stunning Muller organ (1724), the gilded oak vaults (with remains of paintings above the southern aisle) and the stained glass windows (1555). Check the lively 15th century carvings on the choir stalls some of them are downright rude.
As in the Nieuwe Kerk, many famous and not so famous Amsterdammers fie buried here under worn tombstones, including Rembrandt's first wife, Saskia van Uylenburgh (died 1642). The church is open daily from I I am to 5 pm, Sunday from I pm, and admission costs f5 (f3.50 with discounts). A Dutch Reformed service is held Sundays at I I am (door closes at 11 am sharp).
The church's tower (1565) is arguably the most beautiful in Amsterdam and is well worth climbing for the magnificent view. The 47 bell carillon, installed by the carillon master Francois Hemony in 1658, is considered one of the finest in the country. The bell in the top of the tower dates from 1450 and is the city's oldest.
The only problem is that the tower can only be visited by guided tours organised in advance at a cost of f65 per hour (maximum 25 people). If you can get a group together to share expenses, ring.
