A barrage of German bombs obliterated Rotterdam's center on May 14, 1940 cowing the Netherlands into a hasty surrender. Rising like a phoenix from the dust and ashes, this gleaming city of metal and glass is testament to the resilience and perseverance of its inhabitants. In the gleam of the skyscrapers, however, are solemn reminders of the city's tortured past. Grim and contorted faces peer sternly from the stark and austere statues that dot its streets and squares. However inspired you are by the sparkling columns of glass, or amused by the avant garde architecture of the bridges and buildings, the faces on the statues will always make you look again, and think of the past.
ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD
For such a large city, the possibilities for sleeping cheaply are limited. However, the
two budget accommodations, which do exist, are quite centrally located. Your best
bet is the NJHC City Hostel Rotterdam (HI), Rochussenstr. 107 109 (tel. 436 57 63), M: Dijkzigt, or tram 6. The place may be showing its age a bit, but the staff is very courteous and friendly. To make your stay more comfortable, the hostel offers a lounge, game room, TV, bar, and more of those high tech lockers (f.3.50). No groups are accepted in July and August. (Reception open 7am 2am. Lockout I Oam3pm. Curfew 2am. f24, nonmember f2g. Shower and breakfast included. Sheets fo.) For even cheaper accommodation, there's always the Steep In, hidden away at Mauritsweg 29 (tel. 412 14 20 or 414 32 56). A bit grimy, but the cheapest beds in town (f15). Open mid June to mid August. Reception open 4pm lam. Curfew lam. Lockout I 0am 4prn . Breakfast and showers included. No reservations.
There are many eating options in Rotterdam, and most of them cluster around Nieuwe Binnenweg (close to both accommodations), or in the Oude Haven. Lux, Is Gravendijkwal 122, gives you a really classy atmosphere in which to wolf down your hearty Italian meal (open 7:30 1 Ipm; entrees f7 20). Congo Bongo, 's Gravendijkwal 136a, is home to a Caribbean menu, with a mood that is decidedly wicker and home of beautiful people (open Tues. Sun. 6 1 lpm; menu f5 25). Aqui, on the Oude Haven, offers a Spanish menu, tile mosaics, and a great view of the harbor (open Wed. Sun. 5pm late; meals f7 22). 010 De Eend, Mauritsweg 28, right next to the Sleep In, serves up affordable Dutch meals. The menu changes daily (open Mon. Fri. 4:30 7:30pm; prices f 10 17).
When the wallet is thin, Jac Hermans Supermarket, 30a Nwe. Binnenweg, vends all your basic sustenance (open Mon. I lam 6pm, Tues. Thurs. 9am 6pm, Fri. 9am 6:30pm, Sat. 9am 5pm). Markets also pop up in squares all over the city. Your options after about 6pm are quite limited; late night convenience stores haven't quite caught on yet.
SIGHTS AND ENTERTAINMENT
Much of Rotterdam's attraction lies in its architecture. Heavily influenced by the de Stijl school, Rotterdam was built as a futuristic abstraction. Although there are no rocket cars, man eating monsters, or jet packs to be seen, Rotterdam nonetheless ruthlessly pushes ahead to become more advanced and modem.
The city is in a state of constant construction; it seems that around every comer, you're met with forklifts and excavation. What has been completed, however, should not be missed. For a dr amatic example of the eccentric approach of some recent architecture, check out the freaky cube houses, designed by Piet Blom and built in 1984.
Looking like something out of Alice in Wonderland, these odd living quarters are strangely reminiscent of the inside of a Yahtzee dice cup: jumbled cubes perched precariously around one another. You can even tour one if you like. Take the metro to Blaak, and follow the signs to Kijks Kubus (open Mon. Fri. l0am5pm, Sat. Sun. I lam 5prn; Oct. Dec. and April May Tues. Sun. 10am 5pm; Jan.March Sat. Sun. lIam 5pm; f2.50). Such modem architecture strikes a strange contrast with nearby Oude Haven (old harbor), home to nice restaurants populated with swanky youths reclining and watching the ships go by.
Perhaps the most powerful monument in the city is Ossip Zadkine's incredible Monument for the Destroyed City, a statue of a man screaming, his arms raised in self defense, his entrails spilling out onto the ground. This vision vividly embodies the pain and terror of the 1940 bombing raid. Take the metro to Churchillplein, walk toward the Blaak, and the statue is directly behind the Mariteim Museum. While you're here, check out the Mariteim Museum as well, a collection of memorabifia related to sailing from paintings to models to masts (open Tues. Sat. l0am5pm, Sun. I lam 5pm; f6).
To the north, across the street from the Mariteirn Museum, stands the stately manor of the Schielandshuis (Historical Museum), 31 Korte Hoogstr. Inside, you'll find the history of Rotterdam through painting, sculpture, and other artifacts of the times (open Tues. Sat. 10am 5pm, Sun. I lam 5pm; f 0) . For an astoundingly comprehensive collection of art, try out the Museum Bogmans van Bogningen, Museumpark 18 20, M: Eendractsplein or tram 5. Home to everything from before Bosch,
past Picasso, with a row of Rubens, a vault of Van Gogh, and a ntix of Magritte (open Tues. Sat. 10am 5pm, Sun. 11am 5pm; admission f6).
Chill for a couple of hours in Dizzy jazz Caffi, 's Gravendijkwal 127. Hang out with a cup of cappuccinci and sweet live jazz on Tuesday nights, (Open 8am 2am, dinner served until lOpm; 1`545.) To mingle with all the other cool people in Rotterdarn, head to the Westerpaviijoen, at the comer of Nwe. Binnenweg and Mathenesserlaan. If the weather's nice, there's usually a big crowd outside. Inside, the service is fast and friendly. (Open Mon. Fri. 7am lam, Sat. Sun. 7am 2ain; cappuccino f2.50, meals f7 15.) Another popular Rotterdam institution is de Pijp, on Gaffelstr. 90, just off Nwe. Binnenweg. The inside is decked out in neckties and coasters, creating a rather strange ambience. Rumor has it that the Rolling Stones ate here. (Open Mon. Sat. noon lam.)
For a little less talk and a lot more sweat, check out one of Rotterdam's dance clubs. (Word to the wise, dancing with your wallet in your back pocket is like painting "sucker" on your back.) For Rotterdam's most active club life, try Night Town, West Kruiskade, 28. Alternative and Indie bands play here and the mood is frenetic. Expect a f5 "membership fee" and then another f10 35 cover depending on the band. (Open Fri. Sat.11pm late.) For a good time without the entrance fee, try Beat Corner, at the comer of Nwe. Binnenweg and's Gravendijkwal (open 10pni tate).
