At the geographical center of the Netherlands, Utrecht presents comely canals, a grandiose cathedral, and a university that is a leftist bastion in a liberal country. Its students support a dynamic cultural scene and nightlife, If you arrive by train, hang out in the Hoog Catharijne, the huge modem shopping complex around Centraal Station. For something a little different from the mall, bail out to Utrecht's older quarters. At the center of Utrecht rises the Domkerk, begun in 1254 and finished 250 years later (open 10am 5pm; Oct. April Mon. Sat. I lam4pm; free). The Domtoren, originally attached to the cathedral but freestanding since a nasty medieval storm blew away the church nave, is the highest tower in the Netherlands. Climb all 465 steps to see Amsterdam on a clear day. (rower open Mon. Fri. 10am 5pm, Sat.Sun. noon4pm; Nov. March open Sat. Sun noon4pm. Obligatory guided tours on the hour.
A, children under 12 f2.)The Pandhof, the church's 15th century cloister garden, has been converted into a rustic herb garden (open Mon. Fri. 10am 5pm, Sat. I lam 5pm, Sun. noon 5pm; Nov. March Sat. Sun. noon 5pm; free). At the Centraal Museum, Agnietenstr. 1, you can marvel at a 9th century Viking ship and paintings of the Utrecht school (open Tues. Sat. l0am 5pm, Sun. noon 5pm. f5; seniors, children, and CJP holders f2.50). Het Catharijneconvent, Nieuwe Gracht 63, documents the progress of Christianity in the Netherlands with a comprehensive collection of Dutch religious artwork (open Tues. Fri. I Oam 5pm, Sat. Sun. I I am 5pm. 5, students, seniors, and those under 18 f3.50).
Practical Information, Accommodations, and Food Utrecht has a lamentable dearth of cheap hotels; the VVY charges f3.50 (plus f I for the phone calls) to locate lodgings, but they can secure special discount rates. Visit the main office, Vredenburg 90 (tel. (06) 34 03 40 85), at the end of the shopping mall if you arrive by train, ask at the information booth in the station for a free walking map (subsequent maps fl.50) to help you find it (open Mon. Fri. 9am 6)pm, Sat. 9am4pm; a machine outside spews a map and information for Q at other times). The delightful Jeugdherberg Rhiinauwen (HI), Rhijnauwenselaa n 14 (tel. (03405) 612 77), is set in a majestic medieval manor house surrounded by countless country canals. Take bus 40, 41 or 43 from Utrecht's Centraal Station (several per hr., 3 strips; tell driver your destination) and walk 5min. (Reception open 8am 12:30am. Curlew officially 12:30am, but it's flexible. f22, nonmembers f27. Sheets f6. Lockers fl, with f5 deposit. Showers and breakfast included. Pizza and cheeseburgers f2 7 at the bar.) Camping De Berekuil, Arii~nslaan 5 7 (tel. (030) 7138 70), is not far from the center of town; take bus 57 from the station to the Veemaikt stop (f4 per person and f4 per tent; reception open 9am I Opm; open April Oct.),
Caffi De Baas, Lijnmarkt 8, just across the canal from the Dormoren, features yummy vegetarian dishes from f9.50 with occasional live music (open Wed. 5pmlOpm, Thurs. 5pm lam, Fri. 5pm 10pm, Sat. noon 10pm). The two main Student mensas, open to all, are Veritas, Kromme Nieuwe Gracht 54, and Unitas, Lucasbolwerk 8 (meals f5 9; both open mid Aug. to late June Mon. Fri. 5 7:30pm). De GoeyKoot, Nobelstr. 22, vends exotic fruits at basement prices (open Mon. noon 6pm, Tues. Sat. 9am ( )pm). The restaurants lining the Oude Gracht are more atmospheric, but their ambience will cost you. Try the hip and happening Toque Toque, ClUde Gracht 138, at Vinkenburgstr. A mongo plate of pasta, with salad and bread, runs f12.50. (Open Mon. Fri. 10am midnight, Sat. 9am midnight, Sun. noon midnight.)
Utrecht presents ample opportunity to get wild and let loose. Things get hopping around I Ipm at two popular bars: intellectual De Kneus, Nobelstr. 303 (open 4pm4am), and the earthier't Pandje, Nobelst. 193 (open lOpm 4am; beers from f2.50; bar food f2.50 4.50). If you're yearning for Americana, escape to the jungle at Mad Mick and Big Mamou, Oudekerkhof 29, a rocking Cajun bar and restaurant with drinks like the "Slippery Nipple" and live music every Monday at 9:30pm .
At the geographical center of the Netherlands, Utrecht presents comely canals, a grandiose cathedral, and a university that is a leftist bastion in a liberal country. Its students support a dynamic cultural scene and nightlife, If you arrive by train, hang out in the Hoog Catharijne, the huge modem shopping complex around Centraal Station. For something a little different from the mall, bail out to Utrecht's older quarters. At the center of Utrecht rises the Domkerk, begun in 1254 and finished 250 years later (open 10am 5pm; Oct. April Mon. Sat. I lam4pm; free). The Domtoren, originally attached to the cathedral but freestanding since a nasty medieval storm blew away the church nave, is the highest tower in the Netherlands. Climb all 465 steps to see Amsterdam on a clear day. (rower open Mon. Fri. 10am 5pm, Sat.Sun. noon4pm; Nov. March open Sat. Sun noon4pm. Obligatory guided tours on the hour.
Practical Information, Accommodations, and Food Utrecht has a lamentable dearth of cheap hotels; the VVY charges f3.50 (plus f I for the phone calls) to locate lodgings, but they can secure special discount rates. Visit the main office, Vredenburg 90 (tel. (06) 34 03 40 85), at the end of the shopping mall if you arrive by train, ask at the information booth in the station for a free walking map (subsequent maps fl.50) to help you find it (open Mon. Fri. 9am 6)pm, Sat. 9am4pm; a machine outside spews a map and information for Q at other times). The delightful Jeugdherberg Rhiinauwen (HI), Rhijnauwenselaa n 14 (tel. (03405) 612 77), is set in a majestic medieval manor house surrounded by countless country canals. Take bus 40, 41 or 43 from Utrecht's Centraal Station (several per hr., 3 strips; tell driver your destination) and walk 5min. (Reception open 8am 12:30am. Curlew officially 12:30am, but it's flexible. f22, nonmembers f27. Sheets f6. Lockers fl, with f5 deposit. Showers and breakfast included. Pizza and cheeseburgers f2 7 at the bar.) Camping De Berekuil, Arii~nslaan 5 7 (tel. (030) 7138 70), is not far from the center of town; take bus 57 from the station to the Veemaikt stop (f4 per person and f4 per tent; reception open 9am I Opm; open April Oct.),
Caffi De Baas, Lijnmarkt 8, just across the canal from the Dormoren, features yummy vegetarian dishes from f9.50 with occasional live music (open Wed. 5pmlOpm, Thurs. 5pm lam, Fri. 5pm 10pm, Sat. noon 10pm). The two main Student mensas, open to all, are Veritas, Kromme Nieuwe Gracht 54, and Unitas, Lucasbolwerk 8 (meals f5 9; both open mid Aug. to late June Mon. Fri. 5 7:30pm). De GoeyKoot, Nobelstr. 22, vends exotic fruits at basement prices (open Mon. noon 6pm, Tues. Sat. 9am ( )pm). The restaurants lining the Oude Gracht are more atmospheric, but their ambience will cost you. Try the hip and happening Toque Toque, ClUde Gracht 138, at Vinkenburgstr. A mongo plate of pasta, with salad and bread, runs f12.50. (Open Mon. Fri. 10am midnight, Sat. 9am midnight, Sun. noon midnight.)
